What a sweet little treat this old English apple affords to the discerning
connoisseur! In an earlier time, we would call it a “lunchbox apple”—only a few
bites in each fruit, perfect for snacking. Though now I wonder if any kids still have
lunchboxes since school cafeterias seem to specialize in such nutritious offerings as
pizza and perhaps some overcooked vegetables.
E.A. Bunyard in his classic little 1929 book, The Anatomy of Dessert, makes
a strong case for Pitmaston as a unique and delightful dessert apple, marginalized
in the market solely because of its diminutive size. Today it remains a lesser-known
variety, but one that’s still treasured by some specialty orchardists and home
gardeners.
The apple was first grown around 1785 by one Mr. White, a steward to Lord
Foley of Stoke Edith in Herefordshire. It was first exhibited at the Royal
Horticultural Society in 1845 by the J. Williams nursery of Pitmaston, in
Worcester. It’s said to have been a cross between Old Golden Pippin and some
unknown apple.
As to the taste, the apple is true to its name, with the pineapple-like flavor
especially evident in a good growing year. Yet it is far more complex than that,
with a rich, aromatic, sugary quality. Bunyard describes it as a “remarkable blend
of honey and musk.” In short, Pitmaston is an apple whose flavor punches way
above its weight.
Although I generally like smaller apples for cider making (higher skin-to-flesh
ratio), and am always on the lookout for good russet apples, I’ve never tried adding
Pitmaston to my press schedule. Partly because it’s such a delightful dessert apple
that I prefer to eat it out of hand, but also because I have a prejudice against using
apples with “interesting” or “unusual” flavors to my ciders. If you do use it, though,
let me know how the flavor ferments out: my advice would be to use it sparingly, if
at all, for cider.