Golden Russet

Long referred to as the “Champagne of cider apples” (pardonnez moi, French

nationalists), Golden Russet is still one of the best apples to use in cidermaking

Why? Well, the main reason is the ripe apple’s high Brix level (a measure of sugars

and other solids). The sweet juice ferments nicely and is suitable for making a high-

quality single-variety cider, though I think adding another variety to the blend

often produces even better results. Other reasons for this old standard’s popularity

are that it ripens late in the season (mid to late October here in the Northeast) and

keeps exceptionally well until spring in cold storage. Both of these characteristics

were a boon to farmers (whose workload eased off late in the year) and farm

cidermakers (who could store and press the fruit whenever they found time).

The exact origins of the apple are murky. Some sources say it originated in

New Jersey in the 18 th century; others claim it’s from western New York and cite

the first references to it in the mid-19 th century. And in fact there may well be

different strains of Golden Russet, with some fruit writers considering it

synonymous with (or a seedling of) the English Golden Russet. We may never know

its true lineage, unless and until some clever scientist figures out the genealogy

through DNA analysis. But no matter, let’s just celebrate the wonderful flavor and

quality of the apple and call it simply the American Golden Russet.

I love Golden Russet not only for its pear-like sweetness and satisfying

crunch, but because it also forgives the procrastinating apple-picker. The fruits

contain so much sugar that they can withstand a number of fall frosts without

losing their quality, and they hang tight on the branches for a long time without

dropping (thus increasing their sugar content even more). I have harvested Golden

Russet just after Thanksgiving in late November, when they look like Christmas

balls on the leafless trees (see photo).

Perhaps the most famous endorsement of Golden Russet comes from an

anonymous farmer quoted by the famous American clergyman and abolitionist,

Henry Ward Beecher in an1859 book, Plain and Pleasant Talk About Fruits,

Flowers and Farming. Beecher had been the editor of the Western Farmer and

Gardner [sic] some 20 years earlier, and he reportedly asked the farmer which

apple varieties he would select to establish a 1,000-tree orchard. “Set out 999

Golden Russets,” the man replied, “and for the last you may have your choice.”